Kit Build/Review; 1/72 Forces of Valor Pz III ausf N

This is my second kit from this company (the first was a King Tiger), and I like it. I bought it 'cause I wanted to build a knocked out tank. So I had a look through several of my Panzer Wrecks titles. I was somewhat surprised how few Pz IIIs there are in the editions of the Panzer Wrecks series I happen to have.

The main bits.

Strange how they have the commander figure on the track sprue!

More bitzenbobz...

Very nice finely moulded running gear!

And the last bits, inc. instructaloids.

A contender for the most paltry decal sheet ever?

Prepping parts for the running gear.

So I wound up using images of Pz IVs, instead. The kit has schurzen, on both turret and body. I noticed many tanks lose their body armour, and yet retain the turret armour. Numerous wrecked Pz IV in the books I was referring to are in this state: schurzen up top, but not below. 

I also wanted to create battle damage, and this kit, quite chunky, presented some challenges in doing that. I also wanted numerous hatches open. Again, not always easy, with this kit. For example, the styrene behind the turret side hatches is very thick. So instead I had the schurzen open, instead. 

A combo of mine damage and a shell penetration ...

... have upset this side.

This side is mostly unscathed.

The wheels as supplied are mostly on two pairs of large strips, to make construction easier. Sometimes I would go with this type of arrangement. But in this instance I knew I wasn't going to go with it, for two reasons: first, the joining parts would be all too visible, and detract form the realism o' the resulting model; second, as a battle-damaged tank, I want the wheels all wobbly and out of alignment.

Turret cupola surgery.

The bulk is built.

Getting into detailing some battle damage.

The commander's hatch is designed to be open. But I didn't want to use the commander figure. The tank is going to be empty/abandoned. I sawed off the 'bucket' below the cupola. I also modelled the storage bin at the back of the turret open, and put some crew gear in it.

Battle damage wise, this tank drove over a mine, throwing off the track. Once immobilised, it's been hit low in the hull, rught where the mine blew up, more or less. There's a shell penetration in the lower forward hull, which has blow a return roller off, and some bent fenders and schurzen, and a few smaller caliber penetrations in the turret armour. The return roller that's been knocked out of position has also come apart, and some of the wheels near the point of the two impacts are knocked out of alignment.

Starting to add stowage.

Turret bin open...

Some growage of stowage. Plus opening turret schurzen.

Poor scribing this side.

Track sag.

Track sag is always a nice touch. but it's not always easy to achieve, and depends to quite a large degree on the type of track the kit uses. This kit has tracks of the better than average but won't glue with model glue variety. I had to glue them using Gorilla Glue superglue gel. The tracks are decent enough looking, detail wise. And I'm pleased with the overall effect.

Much more drastic track sag.

Adding some detail/interest to the rear engine deck.

I really want to start finishing some of my models. This one is intended to be a diorama. But hopefully also one I can still deploy on a wargame table, if desired. Most of my builds thus far have been with mid to late war stuff in mind. But this is finished in earlier war dark grey. I'm hoping I might learn to get better at single colour paint jobs. At present it's just blocked in. Weathering and shading are yet to be begun.

Started work on a base.

Halford's grey basecoat.

Revell dunkelgrau, decals, and a little blocking in of colours.

I don't think I'll be buying the Revell dunkelgrau spray can I used on this again. It took most of the rather small can to do this one model. And at about £5 a can, or thereabouts, that's simply too much. I don't know if I'll regret it, but I decided to put the decals on - using transfers from my spares box - at this stage. I'll work on shading and weathering over and around them, being careful not to obscure them altogether.

I'll end this post for now with a few more pics of the tank as she looks at close of play today. There's still a long ways to go. But at least I'm further on with her than with most models I post, where I more or less stop once construction is complete. I must get better at finishing stuff!

I'm quite pleased with progress so far.

Markings make such a difference!

The open hatches add some interest.

I like this view from the rear, with added suff, and open turret bin.

Just need to work on making the paint job more interesting!

To conclude, I really like the two Forces of Valor models I've built so far. They're less than half the price of certain other brands; Dragon, for example, have long been very expensive. But more recently, and rather depressingly, Revell kit prices at my local shop have gone up to similarly over-inflated levels. These FoV kits are, currently, cheaper than those hoary ol' Airfix 'vintage classics'!!! And they build into really quite good models, esp. with a bit of effort. It's a shame the range is, at present, really rather limited.

Book Review: The Einheits-Diesel, Alan Ranger

My love affair with WWII German trucks continues. I love the excellent Nuts & Bolts book I recently reviewed (find that here), but wanted more. So I ordered The 'Einheits-Diesel', by Alan Ranger.

Lots of great atmospheric pictures...

This is a somewhat different proposition to the super-detailed Nuts & Bolts treatment, and instead focuses on picture's from the author's own collection. This is great, as it means these are not the same old pictures one sometimes encounters in military reference works.

With around 130 or more black and white photographs, after a brief intro' to the subject, the text is purely the captions to the images. The bulk of the images are of the open backed 'standard' varieties, with the last quarter of the book moving over to closed box body versions.

... that you won't find elsewhere...

The Einheits-Diesel was originally an attempt to standardise German military track production, but as Ranger notes, 'in the end it only added one more to the number', rather ironically. And as the wartime evolution of technology took off, it was quickly superseded and left it behind. The consequence was that by war's end, most had been run to death.

... mostly of a very decent quality, like this one.

I'm intending to build lots of German rear-echelon trucks and trailers and whatnot. I'm gradually amassing a number of kits of this and similar types. This book is a great addition to my growing library on this fascianting subject. The text is clear, concise, and whilst short sand basic, nonetheless informative, and the pictures - whilst of varied quality - are great, chiefly because they're not images one is likely to find elsewhere.

Highly recommended.

The back cover.

Misc: Moulding & Casting, cont.

My erdpfahl. Far from perfect, but passable... I hope?

I'm kind of getting ahead of myself here, starting with the above image of numerous erdpfahl, or stakes, and other bits and bobs. But they are the item I first had a yen to scratch-built and cast in resin, thereby launching this whole moulding and casting saga.

I did a lot of mould-making and quite a bit of casting after the episodes I've blogged already. And I'm not showing all of them. One thing I did was cut the big mould which contained ammo boxes and shells down into two smaller moulds. And in turn I then further cut these moulds in two, adding more pouring and venting channels. The improved results, pictured below, show that this was a better idea than simply chucking the mould out.

Much better results from modified moulds.

The largest group, at the top, are best.

In the image above, I've cleaned up the castings from the modified moulds, and 75% or thereabouts are great. There's one iffy one, and one outright dodgy/unusable one per item: spent shell, live round, and ammo box.

Next up I decided to revisit copying some wheels. But this time in sets of four, and with properly laid out pouring and venting channels. Would this extra effort produce better results? Indeed, would it yield usable items?

Sets of better prepared wheels, ready to be moulded.

Wheel moulds in progress, plus another single erdpfahl mould.

Once all the new moulds were made I get the whole lot ready for a potential complete casting session (not, alas, of the Hollywood starlet variety). And here they all are. A good little set, quantity wise, even if not quality wise. One issue however, is that the resin I'm using cures so quickly I can't really cast a whole set as big as this lot. If I try to, the resin is already going off before I've done all the pouring.

Lots of luvverly blue moulds...

Before I move on to the final chapter in this saga, for the time being at least. Here are a couple of pics of some of the multiple little gubbins that I made for the 88s, this time cast in several sub-sets, as opposed to the over-filled single mould attempt I made earlier on. As can be seen in the upper of the two images below, I usually try and do a few other little moulds as well, to use up all the resin I've mixed.

Casting the 'multiple gubbins' moulds.

The results of splitting stuff up speak for themselves, I think

As the lower pic above shows, pretty clearly, breaking the over-filled mould grouping into smaller sub-sets paid off. Air flows far more freely through the admittedly still tiny passages, and the items are, as a result, far more likely to cast properly. The wheel on its own and a tiny erdpfahl, nigh on invisible below the wheel, were the only successes out of the several other smaller moulds in the upper of the two pics above.

After the steps shown just above, I moved on to a more mass production casting stage, and the results are shown immediately below. Including one set each of the new tyre casts. The latter aren't perfect. But I think they are usable. I'll be doing this with a few wheel sets. Primarily on account of Chester, our new cat/kitten, waging a pretty successful war on my mini-Wehrmacht forces. I have artillery, cars, trucks and even tanks needing various bits - mostly wheels - replacing. I had to move my whole modelling workspace upstairs out of the lounge on his account. The little devil! 

Once I got a stockpile going, I started to feel reasonably pleased.

Bagged up, sorted into groups for specific jobs.

And so it finally came time to add some of this stuff to a few of the models for which they've been produced. The moment of truth, I suppose! I started with the Hasegawa 88s, both of which needed erdpfahl, linkages, and handles. I've done one as if just deployed, before being staked, and the other with the stakes going through the arms/legs, whatever they are, ready to fire.

A Hasegawa 88with added stakes (stowed), linkages and handles.

Stakes deployed, and ammo and boxes added to the scene.

This is the Airfix 88, with stakes deployed, linkages, and (not visible) handles.

Another view of an Hasegawa 88, with stowed stakes, plus ammo stuff.

I've gone to great effort, considerable expense, and produced some not too great parts, that most folk probably won't even notice. Yay! That's the life for me. And, I think, quite typical model-making behavious, from what I see elsewhere. But I've had a lot of fun, and learned a fair bit. I think for my next attempts at mechanical reproduction, I'll try another and much cheaper technique. But before I get to that point, I think I need to paint these 88mm guns. And perhaps even base them?

Kit Build/Review: B&P Sturmtiger, pt 2

The image above conveys how much larger the 1/72 Build & Play Sturmtiger is than the 1/72 ICM model. Not a deal-breaker for me. But it's almost the same degree of difference as you get between 1/76 and 1/72. I've decided to detail the B&P kit a bit. And I've started with zimmerit, the transportation hooks on the casemate, and a little judicious filling here and there.

I need to find a better way of doing zimm than my current m.o. Which is fiddly and frustrating. I'm using superfine Milliput. In this instance I even sanded the super smpoth styrene surface a bit, to try and improve adhesion. But it's a real bugger getting the Milliput both thin enough and covering all the required areas. As you'll see here, I've left a good deal of 'oh, the zimm's been knocked off' areas. Especially on the sides; working round the imtergrated tool detailing was just too much of a headache!

I used the Milliput to fill in the welding lines on the slopes of the casemate front, where the way it's been rendered by B&P is wrong. I'll be going back in to score crevices at the correct angles soon. I also scratched in some weld/plate irregularities, such as you see on these behemoths in museums. I'm hoping all this white Milliput stuff is going to look much better when the monster gets painted.

I also intend to remove the current wedge like grab handles and replace them all with wire, so they look a bit less clunky. The ammo crane, I'm undecided about. An orgy of poring over the actual vehicles, via reference photos, is definitely in order. What I'd love above all else, is for a cache of factory assembly photos to be unearthed and made available. I'd love to see these monsters being build! If anyone knows of such a resource, please direct me to it!